It’s not every day you get to sip wine made from grapes grown on volcanic soil, aged in barrels beneath a historic castle, and crafted using a more than 500 years old recipe. This is Tokaj, this is Gróf Degenfeld Wine Estate. We caught up with Máté Tóth, managing director of the estate, for a warm and honest chat about organic viticulture, the power of Tokaji Aszú, and why their wines are more than just a drink — why are they a liquid heritage.

MOVIN Agency: Máté, thanks for joining us! Let’s jump right in — what makes Tokaj such a magical place to grow wine?

Máté Tóth: It is truly special. Tokaj sits on volcanic bedrock that formed millions of years ago. This unique soil gives our wines this mineral backbone, a kind of quiet strength. Add in our cool climate, morning mists, and sunny autumns, and you get the perfect conditions for something truly rare — Botrytis cinerea causing or noble rot, which we need to make the traditional Aszú wine. It’s a place where nature and tradition meet in the most beautiful way.

MOVIN Agency: And you’re making that tradition organic. That’s a big step — why did you take it?

Máté: Because we believe great wine starts in healthy soil. Since 2009, we’ve been cultivating all our vineyards organically. That means no synthetic chemicals, using our own compost, and encouraging natural biodiversity in the vineyards. It's not the easiest path — especially with the weather here — but the results are worth it. Wines like our Tokaji Organic Late Harvest "Fortissimo" are proof: they’re rich, elegant, and expressive — yet still light on their feet. It’s Tokaj in its purest form.

MOVIN Agency: Let’s talk about the crown jewel, theTokaji Aszú. For those who don’t know — what makes it so legendary?

Máté: Oh, where to begin! Tokaji Aszú is often called the “wine of kings, king of wines,” and that’s not an exaggeration. For centuries, it’s been one of Europe’s most valuable sweet wines. What makes it so special is how it's made: we hand-pick individual botrytized berries. Each berry dried because of the noble rot , full of concentrated sugars and aromas and in the meantime the Botrytis transformed its aroma compounds to make it taste more than the vine could ever do on its own. Then we soak them in base wine, press them, and age them in Hungarian oak barrels. It’s incredibly labor-intensive — sometimes only 5-7 kg per picker per day — but the result is a wine that’s complex, fresh, powerful, and age-worthy. No two vintages are the same, but each one tells a story.  

MOVIN Agency: And yet, it's still kind of under the radar internationally.

Máté: True. But that’s changing. We’re seeing more wine lovers in places like Japan, Belgium, Germany, Canada, Hong Kong, and the UK really embracing Tokaji Aszú — and not just as a dessert wine. It’s incredibly versatile: great with spicy food, heavy dishes like steak, blue cheese, even as an aperitif. And when people learn about how it's made and its history, they’re amazed. We just need to keep telling the story.

MOVIN Agency: And you’re telling that story with organic wines. One that really caught our attention is your Organic Orange Wine. What’s the story there?

Máté Tóth: Ah yes — that’s one of our most exciting projects! Orange wine is all about old-school winemaking with a modern twist. We take white grapes — in our case, Furmint — and ferment them on the skins, just like red wine. The result is this beautifully textured, amber-colored wine with tannins, spice, and amazing depth.

Doing it organically is key. It allows the wine to truly express the volcanic terroir, the grape’s raw character, and the energy of the vintage. It’s not a wine that tries to please everyone — it’s a wine that tells the truth. For curious wine lovers, it's a whole new way to taste Tokaj.

MOVIN Agency: What do you want someone to feel when they drink a Gróf Degenfeld wine?

Máté: I want them to feel like they’re tasting a piece of Tokaj’s soul. We provide a certain honesty and straightforwardness in all our wines, both in the taste and both in the production process. Whether it's a crisp dry Furmint or a golden 6 puttonyos Aszú, each wine should tell a story — of the land, the climate, the people, and the legacy we’re trying to preserve. It’s not just about flavor; it’s about feeling connected.

MOVIN Agency: Beautifully said. One last question — if someone visits the winery, what can they expect?

Máté: Warm hospitality, stunning views, and a glass (or three) of something unforgettable. The castle is more than a building — it sets the tone for everything. Elegant, timeless, and a little bit magical — just like Tokaj itself. We have a restaurant where we match our wines with amazing dishes using also homegrown ingredients from the castle garden.

MOVIN Agency: Thank you, Máté. Can’t wait for our next visit!

Máté Tóth: Thank you! Cheers — and see you soon in Tokaj!

Don't forget to check out the products from Gróf Degenfeld Wine Estate.