5 mins
Krasznai Zsófia

MEET THE WINEMAKER Series: A Modern Approach to Terroir-Driven Excellence

Exploring Carpinus Winery's Journey to success. Uncover the philosophy, vineyards, and international aspirations of the Carpinus Family Winery and how they showcase the unique character of their terroir in each exquisite bottle.
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Exploring Carpinus Winery's Journey to success. Uncover the philosophy, vineyards, and international aspirations of the Carpinus Family Winery and how they showcase the unique character of their terroir in each exquisite bottle.

MOVIN's Interview with the Carpinus Family Winery

Today, we have the pleasure to meet the passionate team behind Carpinus Winery, a modern family winery deeply rooted in the traditions and heritage of generations past. Thank you for joining us. Could you tell us a bit about the philosophy that drives Carpinus Winery?

István Bai: Thank you for having us. At Carpinus Winery, we pride ourselves on producing characterful, terroir-driven wines that embody a clean style, high quality, and professionalism. Our name, Carpinus, which translates to "hornbeam" in English, pays homage to our largest vineyard, Gyertyános. We have drawn from our experience working at esteemed wineries both in Hungary and abroad to create a family winery that exemplifies top-quality work, sustainable practices, and a strong position in the global wine market.

MOVIN: That's truly inspiring. Could you share some insights into the vineyards you work with and the emphasis you place on specific grape varieties?

István Bai: Certainly. Our vineyards are located in the renowned Tokaj Wine Region, including Gyertyános, Lapis, Deák, Budaházy, Poklos, Veresek, and Dereszla vineyards. These vineyards have historically been classified as first and second growths, showcasing the exceptional quality of the terroir. We work primarily with indigenous grape varieties and place a special emphasis on Furmint, as it embodies the unique characteristics of our region.

MOVIN: It's wonderful to see such dedication to local varieties. Could you expand on your winemaking approach and your commitment to environmentally friendly practices?

Eszter Bai: Our ultimate goal is to present the natural assets and diverse terroirs of the Tokaj Wine Region through the creation of the finest wines. We prioritize environmentally friendly cultivation practices and closely monitor every step of the winemaking process, from the vineyard to bottling. Each vineyard's individual attributes, including soils, aspect, and microclimate, are carefully expressed through our single-vineyard wines. Our wines are known for their characteristic freshness, elegance, and harmonious nature, meant to be truly enjoyed. We also started the transitional period for organic farming on most of our plots and aiming to transform our production to organic within 5 years.

MOVIN:

Can you tell us more about the wine styles you focus on and how you have responded to dry wine trend in a region where sweet wines had centuries old traditions?

István Bai: We recognized the rising demand for dry wines early on and decided to place more emphasis on this category. This trend has truly transformed the landscape of Tokaj within a decade. When we look back, it's incredible to think that it has been over 20 years since the very first dry wine specifically intended for the market was created. Prior to that, dry wines were mainly produced as base wines for soaking Aszú berries. Since then, dry wines have steadily gained popularity, and now they have surpassed the sweet category in premium retail sales, both in terms of volumes and values. It's truly a testament to the changing preferences of wine enthusiasts and the exceptional quality of dry wines produced in Tokaj. This trend has reshaped the perception and appreciation of Tokaj wines worldwide. We have witnessed firsthand the increasing demand for dry wines and the growing recognition of the unique character and expression they bring to the region and were proactive in reacting to this trend when establishing our winery, and it has proven to be a great decision.

While we still hold deep respect for the legacy of sweet wines, we have embraced the evolving palate of wine lovers and have been proactive in crafting exceptional dry wines that capture the essence of Tokaj.

Our portfolio is rather narrow, with a strong focus on dry Furmint wines. Our flagship wine, the Tokaj Dry, is a blend of Furmint and Hárslevelű, with a minimum of 70% Furmint content. We carefully create our dry vineyard selections to express the unique character of Furmint in accordance with our terroirs. Recently we launched a BRUT Method Traditionelle Furmint. This is also an increasing trend all over in Hungary but we were less eager to step into the category until we saw a stable demand on our markets. While we primarily focus on dry wines, we also produce Aszú wines in limited quantities.

For our Aszú wines, we create a 5 puttonyos Aszú with a very pleasing price-quality ratio. Additionally, in truly excellent years, we craft a super-premium 6 puttonyos Aszú coming in a 375ml premium bottle. Aszú wine represents the pinnacle of what Tokaj can offer to the world. The noble rot, or botrytis, provides a richness and concentration that cannot be replicated. Combined with localized winemaking and aging techniques, these natural blessings make the wine even more complex and elegant. Our aim is to capture the best of this magical gift that our lands have to offer.

The shift towards dry wines has presented an exciting opportunity for us to showcase the exceptional quality and versatility of Furmint. While still respecting the legacy of sweet wines in Tokaj, we embrace the evolving preferences of wine enthusiasts and continue to innovate in the production of our dry wines and limited-quantity Aszú wines. We are thrilled to be part of this exciting journey, continuously striving to innovate and elevate the perception of Tokaj wines on a global scale.

MOVIN: That sounds like a wonderful expression of your winemaking vision. But what about sales recently? We have been successfully collaborating with partnering the Delhaize in the Belgian market for the past five years and have also achieved success with partners in the Scandinavian monopoly markets, but I guess it's just one piece of the pie. Eszter, you are in charge of commercial matters at the family business, could you also share with us your experience in various international markets and your aspirations for expansion?

Eszter Bai: Absolutely! We have been working with several importers across Western Europe and Japan, albeit on a smaller scale. These partnerships have allowed us to introduce our wines to discerning wine enthusiasts in these regions. However, we have a strong desire to expand our presence in the V4 regions and explore opportunities in other parts of Asia. We are also targeting a sustainable increase on UK and European supermarket shelves.

Our focus has always been on export markets, and we intentionally built our portfolio step by step, taking into account the capacity and preferences of our trusted buyers. We aimed for sustainable growth and sought long-term partnerships in order to establish a stable presence. As a result, we have built strong relationships and brand engagements over the years.

While navigating the current market challenges, we have observed that smaller importers are showing increasing interest in premium categories and matured styles. On the other hand, there is significant price pressure and demands for special discounts in the large retail and supermarket segment. It's indeed a challenging balancing act. We have had to make tough decisions to meet these requirements, considering the increased production costs we have faced since the pandemic. However, we believe that staying on store shelves and meeting the demands of the market will ultimately benefit us in the long run.

Our collaboration with Delhaize is a prime example of continuous growth in volumes. We aim to further increase our value proposition by expanding product offerings and exploring in-out products or online exclusive categories. We remain optimistic about the future, even amidst the current challenges. We are committed to enduring these tough times with the belief that our brand will continue to grow, attracting more orders, and maintaining a satisfied customer base on our export markets.

MOVIN: And we wish you all the success in your future endeavors. Thank you for taking the time to share your story and passion with us.

Istvan Bai: Thank you for having us. It has been a pleasure to share our journey and vision with you. Cheers to the love of wine and the traditions that enrich our craft.

Don't forget to check out the products from Carpinus Family Winery .

Written by
Krasznai Zsófia
CEO
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Carpinus Winery
A truly modern days family winery with great respect of their traditions and heritage of many generations. Charachterful terroir driven wines, clean style, high quality and professionalism.
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Tokaj
The world’s first closed wine region was established in Tokaj-Hegyalja and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. The area of the wine district is the same as that of the region, with 5,700 hectares under vine. The characteristic, iconic varieties of the wine region are Furmint, Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály.
Read more